Meet the Farro Growers of the Garfagnana: Italy’s First Protected Grain
Farro della Garfagnana became Italy’s first protected cereal in 1996. Meet the 50+ mountain growers behind it and learn how to cook it at home.
Meet Birrificio La Petrognola: The Brewery That Brews with Farro
La Petrognola brewery in the Garfagnana makes beer with local farro and chestnuts. Meet founder Roberto Giannarelli and plan a visit.
Bagni di Lucca: Where the English Came to Take the Waters
Bagni di Lucca Tuscany: hot springs, an 1837 casino, an English cemetery, an Anglican church, and the Shelleys’ summers. Plan your visit.
Borgo a Mozzano and Coreglia: The Devil’s Bridge and the Figurine Makers
Borgo a Mozzano Tuscany: the Devil’s Bridge, Gothic Line bunkers, a huge free Halloween party, and Coreglia’s plaster-figurine emigrants. Visit.
Barga: Italy’s Most Scottish Town and Its Double Sunset
Barga Tuscany: a walled hill town with Scottish roots, a sunset that happens twice, and a Buffalo Soldier’s last stand above it. Plan your visit.
Fabbriche di Vergemoli and Gallicano: A Cave That Breathes, a Cliff Hermitage
Grotta del Vento Tuscany: a show cave with three guided routes, plus the Calomini hermitage built into a cliff. Tips to plan your visit.
Vagli Sotto and Careggine: The Village Beneath the Lake
Lago di Vagli Tuscany hides Fabbriche di Careggine, a drowned village that has resurfaced only four times. Its story, and what to do there now.
Camporgiano and Piazza al Serchio: Tuscany’s Upper Serchio Valley
Camporgiano Tuscany: an Este fortress full of Renaissance pottery, then Piazza al Serchio’s farro fields and craft beer. Explore the upper valley.
San Romano in Garfagnana: A Fortress Where the Past Talks Back
San Romano in Garfagnana Tuscany: the Fortezza delle Verrucole, where guides in period dress bring a garrison to life, and the Orecchiella. Book ahead.
Castiglione di Garfagnana: Lucca’s Island in Enemy Territory
Castiglione di Garfagnana Tuscany: 14th-century walls built to face the neighbors, and a barefoot Holy Thursday procession. Plan your visit.