Meet Giulia Lazzerini: The Woman Keeping Lunigiana’s Oldest Pasta Alive

Giulia Lazzerini makes testaroli the way they were made before anyone called them artisanal — on cast-iron testi over wood fire, in a Filattiera farmhouse on the Via Francigena.
3 Days in Lunigiana: Castles, Testaroli, and the Oldest Road to Rome

A 3-day itinerary through Tuscany’s northernmost valley — from prehistoric stele statues to Malaspina castles, from the Via Francigena to the oldest pasta in Italy, with a side trip to Cinque Terre.
Lunigiana: The Land of a Hundred Castles at Tuscany’s Forgotten Edge

Lunigiana is where Tuscany meets Liguria and the Middle Ages never quite ended. Prehistoric stone warriors, Malaspina fortresses, and the oldest pasta in Italy — all in a valley most travelers drive through without stopping.